Which turntable stylus should you choose: original, aftermarket, NOS or JICO SAS

The turntable is still there, and so are the records. Now the stylus needs replacing. That is often where things get complicated: two styli listed for the same cartridge can look quite different on the specification sheet, and on the price tag.

Original, compatible, generic, NOS, replica, “improved”… For such a tiny part, there is quite a lot of vocabulary. These labels cover everything from everyday replacements to elaborate designs, with prices ranging from a few dozen euros to several hundred.

To choose well, separate three things: who supplies the stylus, its technical specifications and its exact compatibility. A few useful pointers will help you find your way and get the turntable playing again without a treasure hunt.

Stylus, diamond and cartridge: what are you replacing?

People often talk about “replacing the diamond”. With a cartridge that has a removable stylus, you usually replace a stylus assembly: the tip, the cantilever — the small rod carrying it —, its suspension and the holder that fits into the cartridge.

The cartridge converts the stylus assembly’s movement into an electrical signal. Its body can remain if it is healthy and a suitable replacement exists. Moving magnet (MM) cartridges designed with a removable stylus generally allow user replacement. Moving coil (MC) cartridges often have an assembly that is not user-replaceable, as with Audio-Technica’s AT33PTG/2. Always check the documentation for the exact model before removing anything.

An original stylus: the starting point

An original stylus is sold as a genuine replacement by the cartridge brand. It gives you an official reference, with its own specifications and settings. That is a reassuring starting point when you want to preserve the behaviour of a cartridge you know well.

Original styli come at every level, from basic to highly sophisticated. The version matters as much as the brand: one cartridge family may accept several official styli.

NOS: unused old stock, sometimes scarce

NOS means “New Old Stock”. The part is old but described as unused. The term describes its stock history, not its manufacturer: NOS can be either an original part or an aftermarket replacement.

When an original is no longer made, scarcity can raise its price. Shure, for example, announced the end of its phono production in 2018. Remaining originals are therefore not replenished like current production stock.

NOS can be an attractive option, but “never used” alone does not guarantee its present condition. Ask about provenance, known storage conditions and any checks available. The tip is not the only part that matters: the suspension’s condition matters too. A period box is charming. It is not a health certificate.

Compatible styli and alternatives: how to compare them

A compatible stylus is intended to replace a particular reference. This includes aftermarket alternatives from a different brand from the cartridge. Catalogues also use words such as “generic”, “replica” and “replacement”. These labels give you some clues, but they do not tell you on their own how the stylus is made or how well it will trace a record.

One replacement may cover several variants within a family. Two styli can fit the same cartridge without sharing the same specifications. Before comparing prices, look beyond the little plastic holder: check the tip profile, cantilever, suspension and tracking force.

For example, a conical replacement may be listed for a cartridge originally supplied with an elliptical stylus. It may fit while changing its tracing capabilities. Likewise, compatibility with an “HE” reference does not necessarily mean that the replacement has a hyperelliptical tip: its actual profile should be stated in the specifications.

Tonar and Analogis offer useful alternatives for many vintage cartridges. Choose the exact model according to its stated construction and your needs. The brand is a starting point, but the specifications remain decisive.

For example, the Tonar replacement for Technics EPS-50/207 is explicitly described as conical, including when replacing certain elliptical references. The Analogis VN35E for Shure V15 III specifies a standard elliptical tip, distinct from conical and hyperelliptical versions.

Replicas, custom versions and JICO SAS: replacement or upgrade?

A fine vintage cartridge can sometimes take a different stylus design from the one it originally came with. Some makers offer faithful replicas; others change the tip or cantilever to develop its tracing performance. “Custom”, “improved” and “upgraded version” are not performance standards. What matters is what actually changes in the stylus, beyond the name on the box.

Japanese manufacturer JICO offers the SAS range, short for “Super Analog Stylus”. JICO describes the SAS/S and SAS/R as combining a Micro Ridge diamond tip with a sapphire or ruby cantilever. The SAS/B uses boron.

The starting point matters too. Moving from a basic conical stylus to a more elaborate tip is a different exercise from replacing an already sophisticated original Micro Ridge. Either way, the setup still needs attention.

Shure V15: check the generation and suffixes

The V15 Type IV was supplied with the VN45HE hyperelliptical stylus, among other variants; Shure’s 1988–1989 replacement guide also lists VN45MR references. Several tip profiles have therefore existed within this family. V15 V versions also need to be distinguished, including those with the MR suffix.

Another crucial detail: JICO states that VN5MR and VN5xMR are not interchangeable on its VN5MR SAS/B product page. That little “x” is doing real work. Our guide to Shure V15 stylus references helps identify the correct family.

The specifications that really make a difference

The tip profile

Conical, elliptical and line-contact profiles do not trace a groove in the same way. A finer profile along the direction of travel can trace difficult modulations more accurately, particularly near the end of a side. It still needs correct alignment: an elaborate diamond cannot fix poor setup. Audio-Technica explains this benefit on its VMN95ML Microlinear stylus page.

Bonded or nude diamond

These terms describe construction, not tip shape. A bonded diamond has a diamond tip attached to an intermediate shank. A nude diamond uses a diamond piece mounted directly into the cantilever, potentially reducing moving mass. Two elliptical styli can therefore differ, as explained in Audio-Technica’s cartridge glossary.

Cantilever, suspension and settings

The cantilever is a tiny part with a lot to pass on. Its material, shape, mass and stiffness all contribute to the moving assembly’s behaviour. It works with the tip and suspension, then with the cartridge and tonearm, so its qualities need to be considered as part of that whole. Ortofon highlights the suspension’s role in cartridge performance.

Compliance describes how flexible that suspension is. Tonearm matching takes account of factors including dynamic compliance and the effective mass of the tonearm/cartridge combination. If the new stylus changes those specifications substantially, check that the match still works.

Set tracking force according to the fitted stylus’s recommendations, including any instructions for its brush. An equivalent replacement may retain the original settings: check them before listening. If cartridge and stylus instructions conflict, have the correct value confirmed for that exact combination.

Why one stylus costs a few dozen euros… and another several hundred

The price of a stylus reflects the cutting and polishing of the tip, its construction, the cantilever and the precision of the assembly. With an old original, there may also be a healthy helping of scarcity. It helps to know what you are paying for: a more elaborate design, a hard-to-find reference, or both.

Everyday aftermarket replacements often cost a few dozen euros, as the examples above illustrate. A basic original can remain affordable, while a highly elaborate aftermarket stylus can cost more. Prices do not follow an automatic ranking of original versus aftermarket.

Even within one JICO SAS family, different cantilevers and construction choices can make a substantial difference to the price. When comparing two offers, check the exact model and the total price offered in France. The gap between the price tags does not, on its own, measure tracing quality.

Audio quality: what we measure and what we prefer

Differences between styli go beyond listening impressions. Frequency response, distortion, tracking ability, channel separation and balance can all be measured. A useful comparison still needs controlled conditions and appropriate settings for each stylus. Those measurements give you reference points for technical performance.

At home, the sound also depends on the cartridge, tonearm, setup, record condition and the rest of the system. How you judge it depends on your own hearing, sensitivity to different sound characteristics and preferences. In front of the speakers, everyone has their priorities: some notice sibilance or prominent treble straight away; others listen first for tonal character, dynamics, fine detail or the sense of space. The same sound may seem precise to one listener and a little bright to another.

A stylus can have impressive measurable qualities without quite matching your taste. The choice brings together technical specifications, the way you will use it and listening enjoyment. A damaged tip or poor tracking still calls for a check: it is not a “vintage sound” setting.

The checklist: eight points for choosing a good stylus

Before choosing, here are the points to compare side by side. “Original”, “generic”, “replica”, “NOS” and “improved” tell you about the source, the age of the stock or the way the maker presents the product. None of those words covers everything that makes a good stylus.

The right stylus suits the cartridge and tonearm, works in the right conditions and makes you want to put another record on. Compatibility, workmanship, condition, setup and listening enjoyment all belong in the decision. A fancy label or a high price cannot do all that work on its own.

Choosing the right stylus without turning your living room into a laboratory

1. Identify the exact cartridge. The turntable brand is not enough: its cartridge may have been changed over the years.
2. Check the reference and suffixes. Clear photos of the cartridge body and existing stylus help, alongside checking the compatibility information.
3. Decide what you want. Restoring original specifications, getting the turntable working and improving tracing do not necessarily lead to the same purchase.
4. Compare the stated construction. Tip profile, nude or bonded diamond, cantilever, tracking force and tonearm suitability matter more than the word “premium”.
5. Check the setup after fitting. Tracking force, alignment and antiskating should be checked according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

A good aftermarket replacement can be just the thing for getting a turntable playing again without spending unnecessarily. A checked original still has its appeal when you want to preserve a period setup. And a more elaborate design is worth a closer look if you want to develop a fine vintage cartridge’s performance, provided the tonearm and setup are up to the job.

Our selection of replacement styli and phono cartridges covers a wide range of references. If you are unsure, send us the markings and clear photos of your cartridge before ordering. Identifying one small letter costs less than a stylus that will not fit.

Frequently asked questions

Is an aftermarket stylus always worse than an original?

An aftermarket stylus can perform comparably to, below or above the original, depending on its construction and suitability for the cartridge. Some prioritise an affordable replacement; others use a more elaborate construction. Profile, workmanship and conditions of use provide a more useful basis for comparison than commercial origin alone.

Do you need to replace the entire cartridge when the tip wears out?

If the stylus is removable, a suitable replacement exists and the cartridge is working correctly, its body can remain. For an assembly that is not user-removable, consult the maker’s service or exchange options.

Do all settings need changing after a replacement?

Fitting and tracking force should be checked after replacement. Existing settings may suit an equivalent model. Alignment and antiskating also deserve a check, especially if the cartridge has been moved or the stylus construction changes. The aim is to confirm that the settings follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.